TOP
The 4P light KATUN is made from ~180g cotton fabric, that is exclusively produced for Tschum in nutbrown colour.
It is equipped with snowflaps made from 85g/sqm Nylon tent floor material with PU coating. All buckles and fasteners are made from black coated aircraft grade alloy. The webbings and lines are manufactured from polyamide (Nylon). The elastics are manufactured in Germany to work at -35°C and are also spun with polyamide.
The Tschum 4P light KATUN tent weighs ~3850g (excluding pole and stakes), which is ~2370g less than the standard model.
The 4P light KATUN is equipped with two opposite zippers and a detachable "spider", so the weight of 3850g can be distributed between several persons for hiking.
We recommend our 240 cm aluminium or wooden poles for pitching, but you can also use some stable branches or hang the tent from a tree. The smoke hole cover is multi functional and can be used with a centre pole ore outer suspension.
If properly anchored, the 4P light KATUN will withstand winds of more than 80 km/h with ease, we recommend the 30cm T-Top Steel Pegs.
Like the other Tschum 4P models, the KATUN can be combined with the tentfloor 4P. As the floor is made as a flat piece, and it is connected with elastics to six aluminium cliphooks inside the tent, it will float slightly above ground when unloaded. In practice, that is an easy way to keep water from running onto- and small things from rolling off the floor.
Note for the simultaneous purchase of a Tschum tent + W.STOVE model:
If you buy one of our 2P/ 4P Tschum tents together with one of the W.STOVE models, we will supply the absolutely necessary isolation (Isolating Sleeve size M) free of charge.
If you already own a W.STOVE or a Tschum tent purchased from us and you would like to buy am additional tent or stove afterwards, please feel free to contact us here.
Before pitching the tent, please adjust all pegging points to the half length. Close both zippers completely and connect the tip of the spider web in the top hole with the carabiners.
Spread the tent on the ground, with the right side facing upwards. Form a square, beginning at one of the zippers, and use four pegs to secure it to the ground. It is importand to apply no force, the tent must stay loose enough to accept the other four pegs.
In the next step the missing four pegs are placed, to recieve a regular eight-sided shape. If you have to apply to much force, loosen the four pegging points you applied in the first place.
Now one of the zippers can be opened, and the tip of the pole goes into the small pocket in the tip of the spiter web. Gently push the pole against this tip to slowly erect the tent, until the pole stand straight up. Do not pull sideways on the pole.
Now the zipper is closed again from the outside, and the pegging points are adjusted until the tent is tensioned, and the top hole gets a regular shape as circular as possible. If the top hole is deformed, the entire tent is too.
In the last step, the top cover is put on. If necessary for you to reach the tip, you can put the pole to an angle again. The adjustmants on the pegging points stay intact, and the tent will return to perfect shape, as soon as you put the pole straight again.
In case you use a centrepole inside the tent, the small triangle of the cover is turned inside out, so that the cover can sit on the spider tip like a hat.
If you use outer poles or hang the tent from a tree, there is a rope running through at the top to the tip of the spider web. Leave the cover flat, lay it around the spider web like a cloak, and attach it with the small piece of rope that is sewn to it, just slightly over the tip of the spider web.
The elastics should now be attached to the tent body. They run straight down, not sideways. The opening of the top hole can be modified by attaching several elastics to one point. The cover is fully closed by overlapping two segments.
Spread the tent on the ground, with the right side facing upwards. Form a square, beginning at one of the zippers, and use four pegs to secure it to the ground. It is importand to apply no force, the tent must stay loose enough to accept the other four pegs.
In the next step the missing four pegs are placed, to recieve a regular eight-sided shape. If you have to apply to much force, loosen the four pegging points you applied in the first place.
Now one of the zippers can be opened, and the tip of the pole goes into the small pocket in the tip of the spiter web. Gently push the pole against this tip to slowly erect the tent, until the pole stand straight up. Do not pull sideways on the pole.
Now the zipper is closed again from the outside, and the pegging points are adjusted until the tent is tensioned, and the top hole gets a regular shape as circular as possible. If the top hole is deformed, the entire tent is too.
In the last step, the top cover is put on. If necessary for you to reach the tip, you can put the pole to an angle again. The adjustmants on the pegging points stay intact, and the tent will return to perfect shape, as soon as you put the pole straight again.
In case you use a centrepole inside the tent, the small triangle of the cover is turned inside out, so that the cover can sit on the spider tip like a hat.
If you use outer poles or hang the tent from a tree, there is a rope running through at the top to the tip of the spider web. Leave the cover flat, lay it around the spider web like a cloak, and attach it with the small piece of rope that is sewn to it, just slightly over the tip of the spider web.
The elastics should now be attached to the tent body. They run straight down, not sideways. The opening of the top hole can be modified by attaching several elastics to one point. The cover is fully closed by overlapping two segments.
